Yoyogi Torimatsu - Yakitori

August 25, 2023

We’re huge fans of yakitori (see nbyakitori@), so half the meals on this trip will likely include some form of grilled things on sticks.

Yoyogi Torimatsu 代々木鳥松 is a higher end yakitori-ya in Yoyogi, next to Meiji Jingu Shrine. We made reservations on Tabelog, and they’re fairly active on active on Instagram too.

A cup of chicken soup and a cup of seaweed appetizer. — Starters - chicken soup and seaweed

They operate on a “stop” system, which means they’ll keep giving you skewers until you tell them to stop (literally, “sutoppu” - ストップ). You can also ask for any skewer and they’ll slot it in.

Yakitori skewer - Tenderloin - ササミ (Sasami) — Tenderloin - ササミ (Sasami)

It started off with sasami (chicken tenderloin) topped with fresh grated wasabi. As is typical in Japan, this was cooked rare. Yakitori shops, especially higher end ones, will source specific breeds directly from farmers. Not too different from the care that goes into sourcing fish for sushi.

Small dish of poached chicken breast. — Poached chicken breast and grated daikon, served chilled.

Yoyogi Torimatsu specializes in Amakusa Daio 天草大王 from Kyushu, and even ages some of their skewers for several days.

Yakitori skewer - Myoga - 茗荷. — Myoga - 茗荷

One of the standouts was myoga (ginger shoot) - crisp like an onion but with ginger spiciness. Very refreshing.

Yakitori skewer - Liver - レバー (Reba). — Liver - レバー (Reba)

The reba (liver) was ridiculously fresh and creamy - no iron-y or metallic taste at all.

Yakitori skewer - Testicles - 白子 (Shirako). — Testicles - 白子 (Shirako)

Shirako (testicles). When skewered and slowly grilled, the insides becomes soft. Salted and served with a squeeze of lemon, it pops when you bite into it. Sounds gross but just imagine a tiny, cheese-filled sausage (under Ngoc’s advice, I’ve updated this description from “meat Gusher”). You’ll notice there are 3 pieces on each skewer - two skewers equal 3 rooster’s worth! Definitely a rare piece to grab if you see it on the menu.